Back home again
You can't go home again. ~ Thomas Wolfe
Amen to that. ~ Verna Wilder
I have a friend who confessed to me one day that she likes the smell of skunk. That was years ago, and after all these years, if a skunk passes through the neighborhood, I think of that friend and smile. I thought of her last month when I made my annual road trip to Indiana to visit with family. When I crossed the Wabash River, that old familiar Terre Haute smell rose up to greet me: burning tires, wet dead things, and moldering leaves - with an overlay of skunk.
I asked my father about that smell, and he said that no one knows what causes it, but the local government has been trying to do something about it for years. But here's the thing: Terre Haute has always smelled like that. I remember that smell from childhood visits there, and I'm 62. Do the math. When my sister Carolyn flew to Indiana in 2000, her first trip back there as an adult, I picked her up from the airport in Indianapolis, and as we got closer to Terre Haute, she rolled down the window, took a deep breath, and said, "Smell that, Verna! We're home!"
The three oldest of us kids were born in Terre Haute, but I was three when we moved to San Francisco, Carolyn was a little over a year old, and Butch was a baby. We had four more siblings, all born in San Francisco, and all of us made our lives in California, raised kids there and got divorces there, and every time we'd visit family in Indiana, aunts and uncles would ask us when we were going to move back home.
We made a lot of summer road trips to Indiana when we were kids. All of Mother's family were there and Dad's sister Hazel, so we'd pile in the car and drive for 3 1/2 days across two mountains and one desert and acres of farmland - in summer heat - with no AC in the car. In those days, a rest stop had picnic tables and outhouses - and flies. We ate bologna sandwiches on white bread and drank Kool-Ade and begged for more ice.
After the novelty wore off (about the time we'd hit Sacramento), we spent the remaining three days trying to entertain ourselves, which I think we did very well, in spite of there being six or seven of us crammed into a car. I'm also sure that we must have driven Mother and Dad crazy asking if we were there yet. The oldest of us knew where we were because we could read, but even for the little kids, there were two sure clues that we were almost there:
- We had been in the car so long we thought we lived there.
- The air started to stink.
And sure enough, before you could say, "Are we there yet?" we'd be crossing the Wabash River and driving past the monument in front of the Vigo County Courthouse, a statue with a sign in front that read: Do not spit on monument.
I love living in Colorado. It smells good here, for one thing. And I love my family and those memories of childhood. I love it that I was born in a place that stinks, that is known for its stink, and I can't listen to Wabash Cannonball without seeing my childhood self in the back seat of a station wagon, hand out the window riding the rush of Terre Haute air. It makes me smile - and long for the scent of skunk.



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